Ornate Horn Frog (Pac Man Frog)

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Common Group: COMMON FROGS
Common Name: Ornate Horn Frog (Pac Man Frog)
Scientific Name: Ceratophrys ornata
Distribution: Argentina
Size: 4"-6"

Natural History

"Pac Man frog" is the common name often used to describe any one the many south American horned frogs available in the pet trade. This name is appropriate, and is derived from these frogs hunting and feeding displays. Physically, horned frogs can be described as a giant mouth with a frog attached to it. Anyone who has witnessed a large horned frog consume a prey item will agree.

All horned frogs are tropical species, inhabiting the moist forest floors of Colombia, Argentina, Venezuela, and adjacent countries. The species most commonly encountered include the Chacoan or Argentine horned frog, the ornate horned frog, and the Cranwell’s horned frog. Recent work by frog breeders has resulted in the availability of a number of attractive crosses, as well as albino specimens. With the exception of the more challenging Amazon horned frog, all of the readily available species can be successfully maintained the same way, according to the guidelines outlined here.

Size and Longevity

One of the most appealing aspect of owning horned frogs is watching them grow to enormous proportions. Females of the larger species can reach sizes of 6 to 8 inches, and are nearly as wide as they are long. Males are typically smaller, but even so, can literally be a handful!

The longevity of captive horned frogs is often skewed. Many frogs die prematurely due to poor husbandry and, most often, an inappropriate diet. Properly cared for frogs can live over 10 years, with 15 years or more being entirely possible.

Housing

With the exception of breeding pairs it is best to house these voracious (and sometimes cannibalistic) frogs individually. Despite their massive size, horned frogs are inactive, and do not require much space. As long as close attention is paid to cleanliness, a single adult frog can live in a 10 gallon terrarium. Slightly larger is fine, but anything more than 20 gallons is unnecessary.

Young frogs can be housed in plastic "Kritter Keepers,", or in plastic Flat Homes but keep in mind they are difficult to heat, so if you live in a cold climate, consider a glass tank. In general, all glass terrariums with screen lids are ideal and highly recommended.

Example of an ideal Pacman Frog tank

Heating and Lighting

Despite their tropical origins, horned frogs will thrive at temperatures anywhere between 72 and 85 degrees. Upper 70's to low 80's however, seems to be the ideal range to shoot for. Most peoples homes during most of the year are suitable for housing horned frogs without any supplemental heat. However, during the cooler months, or in the summer if air conditioning is being used, gentle heat may be needed to increase the ambient temperature to acceptable levels.

Heat lights are typically too hot and drying for horned frogs, but if they must be utilized, stick with a red or purple nocturnal bulb, and never more than 40 watts. A much preferred method of warming these frogs is via the use of under-tank heating pads designed specifically for reptile use.

These frogs live on the rainforest floor where they receive only filtered sunlight, at best. Opinions vary regarding the necessity of full spectrum lighting for horned frogs. If housing your frogs in a short cage, less than 6" tall, use of a UVB light may do more than harm than good for your frog's eyes. However, in taller and larger cages, use of a 5.0 compact fluorescent may be beneficial to your frog's ability to metabolize calcium and other vitamins. Many frogs do just fine without UVB, though, as long as they are provided with adequate heat and supplementation, in addition to a varied diet.

Substrate and Furnishings

There are a few different ways to set up pac man frogs, all with their own pros and cons. One method utilizes a sloping layer of aquarium gravel to provide a dry end as well as a "pool" withing the enclosure. Similarly, you can make the gravel all one depth, and provide shallow water throughout the tank. This set-up is aesthetically pleasing, but difficult to maintain. Every time your frog defecates, or the water becomes the least bit soiled, the entire enclosure will require cleaning. Additionally there is a risk of accidental ingestion of gravel by your frogs during feeding.

A second and more reliable method includes providing your frog with a deep layer of moist bedding such as pulverized coconut husk (Eco Earth), or similar products. This bedding should be kept moist to prevent dehydration, but never sopping wet. Patches of sphagnum moss may also be used to provide variation and to aid in humidity control.

The most effective horned frog set-ups are simple ones. Elaborate decor such as [driftwood]http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/reptile-supplies/wood-supplies-and-manzanita/-/pacific-driftwood-small-grapewood/) and live plants can be used if some forethought is given, but typically such items will be moved around or toppled by your frogs. However, use of cork flats can provide your frogs with an area they may prefer to burrow under, and if you can't bear the sight of a plain tank, mount some air plants to the sides of the cage for variety. Since they will not be in the substrate, your frog will be unable to topple them or squish them.

Water and Humidity

If you are utilizing the above mentioned gravel set-up, then no other provisions will need to be made regarding water or humidity. However, close attention must be paid to the water quality. Frogs, like all amphibians, are quite sensitive to toxins in their environments, As a result, anytime the water is fouled by feces or uneaten food, the water should be replaced and all gravel thoroughly rinsed.

If you opt for the more terrestrial set-up, then simple daily mistings of the enclosure with a hand spray bottle should maintain adequate humidity. The substrate should be kept just moist enough to clump, but it should not drip or be soggy. A large, shallow water dish is an optional addition, but as mentioned above, water cleanliness must be closely watched. For the concerned hobbyist with poor quality water, consider using a water treatment to ensure removal of chlorine, ammonia, and nitrates.

Nutrition

Feeding of horned frogs is part of their appeal as terrarium specimens. However, indiscriminate feeding of large, inappropriate food items will ultimately take its toll on your frogs health.

The best diet for horned frogs is a varied one. Appropriately sized crickets, mealworms, waxworms, silkworms, feeder fish, earthworms, and roaches should make up the majority of the diet. In addition to live prey, many pac man frogs can be taught to feed off of tweezers. This gives you the opportunity to provide an even more varied diet, including caterpillars, grasshoppers, snails, or if you have a hard time finding live silkworms, canned silkworms are never out of season! All prey item should be dusted with a high quality calcium/vitamin D3 supplement. This is especially important for quick growing babies. A reptile multi-vitamin should be used at least once a week or slightly less if close attention is paid to gut-loading of prey items.

An occasional pre-killed rodent is ok, but avoid the old-fashioned "one mouse per week" feeding regimen that has proven detrimental to so many pet pac mans. Mice, especially pinkies and fuzzies are quite high in fat, and are lacking any appreciable amount of calcium. As a result, frogs raised on an all rodent diet tend to be obese, short lived, and may exhibit signs of calcium deficiency.

Handling

With most frogs, handling should kept to an absolute minimum, as they have fragile skin that should remain moist, and in general don’t seem to appreciate human contact. Furthermore, horned frogs can inflict a painful bite, and as a result of their ambush predator lifestyle, this is likely if you startle your frog. For these reasons, pac man frogs should be enjoyed from a distance.